{"id":4633,"date":"2019-09-21T11:20:24","date_gmt":"2019-09-21T09:20:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ciceronegranada.com\/?p=4633"},"modified":"2021-08-30T13:07:25","modified_gmt":"2021-08-30T11:07:25","slug":"ziryab-starred-chef-andalusi-cuisine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ciceronegranada.com\/en\/blog\/ziryab-starred-chef-andalusi-cuisine\/","title":{"rendered":"Ziryab: a starred chef in andalusi cuisine"},"content":{"rendered":"

Did you know that we owe much of the etiquette we use when dining to Ziryab, an Andalusi court advisor?<\/strong> And did you know that the way we use olives also derives from Al-Andalus? Or that sugarcane arrived in Spain thanks to the Muslims? At CICERONE, we are sure that you have heard about the strong Andalusi culture influence in our current society<\/strong>; but what was their real contribution to Andalusian and Spanish cuisine?
\n<\/p>\n

Ziryab arrives in C\u00f3rdoba and revolutionises andalusi cuisine<\/h2>\n

When you know the Mezquita in C\u00f3rdoba or see the Alhambra in Granada<\/a> you get an idea of the sophistication of the culture of Al-Andalus. rt and science meant everything to them<\/strong>. This is why scientists, musicians, artists and poets were the veritable celebrities in their culture. They insisted on supporting and nurturing talent and had no hesitation about inviting outstanding figures from abroad<\/strong>. However small, any contribution to Al-Andalus was valued.
\nWell, it turns out that one of the people invited was Abu-Hasan Ali Abn Nafi, also known as Ziryab (Blackbird)<\/strong>. He arrived in C\u00f3rdoba in the IX century, from Baghdad as a renowned musician and poet<\/strong>. Ziryab was a born observer and immediately came to the conclusion that there was a lack of refinement in the emirate\u2019s cuisine. Despite the fact that the dishes had a profusion of ingredients, the recipes lacked finesse, as though eating was not also a sensory and aesthetic pleasure<\/strong>.
\nThus, after conducting a meticulous study of what was being eaten, he discovered that the cuisine of the day had its roots in a mixture of Roman, Syrian and Berber cultures<\/strong>. They scarcely ate any fruit, the dishes were presented in haphazard fashion, heedless of how they might be arranged to emphasise their flavours, without any utensils\u2026 Being the talented and practical person that he was, and well-acquainted with the cuisine of Baghdad, he set to work and turned himself into the culinary advisor to the andalus\u00ed emir<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Ziryab, fundamental to the culinary legacy of Al-Andalus<\/h2>\n
\"People
comidasmagazine.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It was then that Ziryab, the Blackbird, began introducing novelties that today seem indispensable<\/strong>. Can you imagine a cupboard without sugar? Strange, you will agree. The Blackbird advised that sugarcane should be grown more widely, which became an essential crop in the economic development of Granada in the Christian and contemporary era<\/strong>. Moreover, he transformed manners at the dining table<\/strong>: he introduced glass drinking vessels, tablecloths, the order of dishes\u2026 all of which are fundamental elements in homes throughout the world and, of course, in restaurants, particularly those that covet or aspire to a Michelin star.
\nBut that\u2019s not all. He replaced the coarseness of the recipes with elegance<\/strong>. His dishes were the most succulent and sophisticated conceivable. It\u2019s a pity that we have to imagine them and it has not been possible to preserve his book of recipes, written in Arabic in 1260. We do however have a record of two andalus\u00ed recipes that are directly inspired by him:<\/p>\n

Ziriab\u00ed<\/h3>\n

A dish made with roasted and salted broad beans, which could well have been the origin of two of the most iconic dishes in Granada\u2019s cuisine: broad beans with ham and beans with cod.<\/p>\n

Granada’s cuisine: beans with serrano ham<\/h4>\n
\"beans
recetassinlactosa.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Beans with ham<\/h4>\n

It is very simple to cook, elaborated with beans, ham, and onions and eggs<\/strong>. This is a delicacy that melts in the mouth. What with the lusciousness of the beans and onions, together with the salt in the serrano ham and the viscosity of the egg\u2026 it\u2019s too good to miss! It\u2019s true that the serrano ham, coming as it does from pigs, would not have featured in the ingredients for Ziryab\u2019s recipes, but it is equally likely that its inclusion was connected to this original salty taste<\/strong>. In Granada (Things to do in Granada<\/a>), we usually eat it in spring.<\/p>\n

Beans with cod<\/h4>\n

\"beansThe recipe is as simple as it is tasty: fresh beans with salted cod<\/strong>. In many villages of Granada, it is a tradition to go outside and chat around an improvised table, while tasting the beans with cod<\/p>\n

Aubergine tortilla<\/h4>\n

Despite the name, this does not refer to the typical tortilla of the Mediterranean diet. Far from it. This is an alternative that harbours a wealth of flavours and nuances<\/strong>. Would you like to know how to make it, in the words of Ziryab himself?
\n\u201cTake some sweet aubergines and boil them in salted water until soft and well cooked. Drain the water, mash the aubergines and mix them on a plate with grated breadcrumbs, beaten egg with oil, dry coriander and cinnamon; beat until the mixture is consistent. Next, discs made with this mixture are fried in a frying pan with oil until golden. Make a sauce of vinegar, oil and crushed garlic; all of this is brought to the boil and poured on top.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

Agriculture and Andalus\u00ed cuisine: a legacy that survives to this day<\/h2>\n
\"people
comidasmagazine.com<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As was mentioned at the outset, Al-Andalus is in the origin of our Spanish and Andalusian society. When the came here, besides\u00a0building fortresses, schools and palaces, took it upon themselves to revolutionise agriculture and, by extension, the economy and the cuisine<\/strong>. They filled the fields with orchards, terracing, kitchen gardens and acequias<\/strong>, or irrigation channels, for watering the crops that they had brought from wherever they had settled earlier.<\/p>\n

Can you guess which plants these were? Grains as essential for us as rice; vegetables such aubergines and spinach; spices such as cinnamon; and fruits such as oranges, acorns and, of course, pomegranates<\/strong>. All of these came from Asia Minor, Persia and Syria. A trick for identifying crops with an Andalusi origin is to look for fruit and vegetables that start with \u201cal\u201d. Indeed, although olive trees were already present on the Peninsula, the Spanish word aceituna (olive) is Arabic in origin. We also owe olive oil to them<\/strong>!<\/p>\n

These products could be found in the zoco, or Arab market. Do you think that their innovations ended there? No. Fresh goods could be bought at the zoco, it\u2019s true, but also ready-made dishes such as har\u00edsa and tarid<\/strong>. Discover the Dobla de Oro tour in Granada<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Andalus\u00ed cuisine is thus, in a way, Andalusian and Spanish cuisine. It\u2019s a gastronomy that results from the contributions of all the cultures that have existed in this place and have been seen in our land, a place for putting down roots.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Did you know that we owe much of the etiquette we use when dining to Ziryab, an Andalusi court advisor? And did you know that the way we use olives also derives from Al-Andalus? Or that sugarcane arrived in Spain thanks to the Muslims? At CICERONE, we are sure that you have heard about the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4631,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"content-type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[315],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nAndalusi cuisine | Who was Ziryab | Cicerone Granada<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The presence of andalus\u00ed culture and cuisine in Granada and Andalusia is very powerful. To a considerable extent, we owe this to the musician Ziryab. 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